Of the word aşure, two things are likely to spring to one’s mind. For those, who have already visited Turkey, it is likely to be the pudding one can taste in pastry shops. For politically minded, it may be news flashes of the Shi’a processions with men flagellating themselves.
Aşure is both very complex and simple at the same time. Several layers of religious traditions are related to this period of the year. On the other hand, it is a pure and simple form of thanksgiving to God and an expression of unity and dialogue.
In Turkey, bowls of aşure, or Noah’s pudding are being passed among family members, neighbours, members of communities in these very days. Women busy themselves with preparing this sweet in huge pots then ladle it into small bowls to be given to relatives, friends, acquaintances. Aşure symbolises acceptance, unity among God’s creatures, its ritual includes sharing, giving and receiving. It strengthens the bond among family members, makes one get to know the community one lives in, promotes friendship and solidarity. This tradition makes people step over boundaries of religion by getting everyone involved regardless of faith, let it be Islamic, Christian or Jewish.
However, aşure has numerous links to religion. Aşure day (aşure günü) is the 10th day of Muharrem, the first month of Islamic calendar, so the actual date in the Gregorian calendar is changing every year. The Alevis often hold a fast on the first 12 days of the month of Muharrem, and prepare aşure at the conclusion of the fast. They remember the martyrdom of Ali’s son, imam Hüseyin who was murdered in the battle of Kerbala, and also his son, Zeynel Abdin, whose salvation allowed the continuation of the prophet’s family. Going back in time, it was also the day when Prophet Abraham (Ibrahim) was miraculously saved from the fire in the present-day Urfa. Noah’s ark supposedly landed on Mt Ararat on this day, too.
The pudding’s history goes back to Noah (Nuh). After having spent months on the ark, there wasn’t much food left when it was finally set aground. To celebrate the end of the great deluge, Noah ordered all different kinds of ingredients, such as beans, chickpea, grains, nuts, figs, apricots and sugar to be collected and cooked together. This is remembered when aşure is prepared and then distributed in the neighbourhood. According to some tradition, one should send a bowl to 40 households in each cardinal direction.
The actual recipe varies between families, and geographical regions. In some areas, such as Zonguldak or Devrek, even meet is added. Although it is supposed to be prepared of 40 different ingredients, most of the time 7-15 are used. These include grains, pulses, dried fruits, nuts, sugar, rose water. So let’s prepare aşure and share it!
Cooking aşure doesn’t involve any complicated procedures but it needs time and loving care. Try it and experiment with the ingredients and spices.
Ingredients
210g whole wheat or barley
70g chickpeas
70g white beans
20g rice
Water
Dried apricots
Dried figs
Dried redcurrant
Raisins
Cubed flesh of a sweet orange
Almond
2 cups of sugar (or more, if you like it really sweet)
Rose water
Pomegranate seeds and pistachio to decorate
When you decide cooking Noah’s pudding, you will have to plan a little as the chickpea, beans and wheat need to be soaked overnight.
The following day, get all your pots out. Cook the beans and chickpea separately. You will have to use your cooker’s full potential as rice and wheat need to be boiled in their own separate pots, too, until starch comes out. Meanwhile, you can soak the dried fruits. When bean, chickpea, wheat and rice are ready, it’s time to get your biggest pot out and mix all the cooked ingredients, dried fruits and almond. Put it back on and cook it all together for about 20 minutes. Check if you need to add a little more water. Add the cubed orange pieces and cook it for another 5 minutes. Finally add the sugar and let it simmer for a few minutes. Add the rosewater after turning the heat off. Ladle the mixture into small bowls and garnish with pomegranate and dust with finely ground pistachio.
Enjoy and don’t forget about inviting your loved ones!
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